Off Repression
Kingston University London | 2018
Exploring clash and fusion between different cultures.
Sleek lines, cosy fabrics, or exaggerated silhouettes don't fully satisfy my perspective on clothing. What I treasure most is the texture of garments, the narrative they hold, and how to articulate it. Personally, I'm insatiably curious about everything, especially cultures unfamiliar to me. I yearn to immerse myself in experiences I've never encountered, to delve into history, and uncover the genesis of each garment detail. This knowledge fuels my creativity, enabling me to infuse my designs with unique textures and narratives. My aim is to craft garments that evoke a sense of nostalgia while inspiring fresh perspectives.
I'm very curious about the culture of the Burqa and the rich history it embodies. Before the 1970s, the fashion of Iranian women was completely different from today.
The 1970s was a time of freedom, with undefined fashion trends. Women began to explore new fashion elements and expressed their personal style through mixing and matching. Those vibrant years included flamboyant and beautiful flower prints, the texture of handmade weaving, sexy disco skirts, and more. The collision between these two opposite cultures during those years inspires me the most and serves as one of my starting points for my final collection.
The Burqa also serves as a significant starting point for me. Its silhouette is traditionally constructed with fabrics like muslin and cotton, adorned with cross-stitch, embroidery trimming, and geometric pattern distribution. These details, combined with the elastic fabrics of the 70s, disco dress styles, and colourful pearl embellishments, could be a new way to express memory and design.
The concept of my final collection “Shaking Off Repression” is a group of exotic women who have the courage to open themselves up, confident and attractive. John Galliano and Bianca Jagger are two important roles that inspired me, especially the changing style of Bianca and the attitude of trying, from whom I can see the sign of 1970s. My designs tend to be glamorous, and more of them are wrapping and draping. In combination with traditional printed coats and big gowns, different headscarf designs combine modern hoodie styles. Many details such as the top’s strips and collars will be used the traditional vintage or the retro charming pearl chain, while the button will be cheongsam or pearl button.
Most of my fabrics were sourced from Brick Lane, Whitechapel, and Shepherd's Bush because these districts offer unique and exotic fabrics for the local communities. I also found some vintage embroidery trimming from one of the shops. Inspired by the intricate details of Islamic coats, I experimented with tie-dyeing and stitch-dyeing on muslin and silk fabrics. While the texture of the fabric isn't my primary concern, the most important thing to me is that the fabrics effectively convey my designs and make a clear, strong statement.
